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Using Trails

Exploring Midwestern Marvels Along the Great American Rail-Trail With the Traverses

By: Shevonne and Pat Travers
October 5, 2023

Patrick and Shevonne Travers on a trail trip through the Midwest | Photo courtesy Patrick and Shevonne Travers
Patrick and Shevonne Travers on a trail trip through the Midwest | Photo courtesy Patrick and Shevonne Travers

As avid cyclists and rail-trail enthusiasts, we decided to ride five Midwestern sections of the Great American Rail-Trail® this September that we’d missed when we journeyed across the country in 2021. We thrive on these adventures—appreciating the unknown, the unexpected and the unique individuals we meet along the way. Being on our bicycles provides us with a sense of freedom and a way to stay attuned to the present moment.

Related: Best Of: Great American Rail-Trail Adventures With the Traverses

Illinois & Michigan Canal Trail (Illinois)

Illinois' Illinois & Michigan Canal Trail | Photo by Patrick Travers
Illinois’ Illinois & Michigan Canal Trail | Photo by Patrick Travers

We began our biking journey in the southwestern suburbs of Chicago. At each mile marker from Joliet to La Salle along the Illinois & Michigan Canal Trail, we could read specific details about the canal’s history, providing us with vivid images of the past. On the outskirts of Channahon, we admired a restored lock and the lock keeper’s cottage. Continuing west, we were overwhelmed by the monument in Morris illuminating how the canal’s construction and subsequent use was responsible for creating the Chicago of today.

In Ottawa, we rode over the remnants of an aqueduct that once carried the canal water over the Fox River. We also visited the city’s Washington Square Park, where we discovered the bronze statues of Abraham Lincoln and Stephen Douglas; they are surrounded by a spectacular fountain display commemorating their first of seven debates for a United States Senate seat in 1858. All along the trail we spotted blue herons, muskrats, deer and beavers.

Illinois' Illinois & Michigan Canal Trail | Photo by Patrick Travers2
Illinois’ Illinois & Michigan Canal Trail | Photo by Patrick Travers2

Hennepin Canal State Trail (Illinois)

Shevonne Travers on the Hennepin Canal State Trail | Photo by Patrick Travers
Shevonne Travers on the Hennepin Canal State Trail | Photo by Patrick Travers

In northwestern Illinois, we spent two days cycling the Hennepin Canal State Trail from Bureau Junction to Colona. The scenery was exquisite, and the canal was full. We discovered that the vast majority of locks are still in place, and enjoyed cycling through the large diameter culverts at road crossings and passing by the steel truss bridges.

Our favorite highlight was the unplanned night we spent at the Hickory Grove Campground, between Lock 21 and 22 (near Sheffield). Prepared to dine on cold beans and yogurt, we instead were invited to join two families for a chicken barbeque and a bonfire. Mesmerized by the flames and the night sky, we swapped stories with new friends.

Related: Trail of the Month: Illinois’ Hennepin Canal State Trail (March 2019)

Illinois' Hennepin Canal State Trail near Bureau Junction | Photo by Patrick Travers
Illinois’ Hennepin Canal State Trail near Bureau Junction | Photo by Patrick Travers

Great River Trail (Illinois)

Illinois' Great River Trail's 10,000 Steps Program | Photo by Patrick Travers
Illinois’ Great River Trail’s 10,000 Steps Program | Photo by Patrick Travers

Near the Illinois–Iowa border, we cycled onto the Great River Trail in East Moline. The view of the Mississippi River was grand from the top of the stone dike. When the trail leveled out, we passed by people of all ages on bicycles and scooters and on foot. In Moline’s Ben Butterworth Parkway, a large sign called attention to a local 10,000-steps program, encouraging people to walk more; to measure one’s progress, a sign marked every 1,000 steps along this section of riverfront trail. We also slowed down to enjoy the small flower gardens along the Moline stretch of trail.

Illinois' Great River Trail in Moline | Photo by Patrick Travers
Illinois’ Great River Trail in Moline | Photo by Patrick Travers

Hoover Nature Trail (Iowa)

Iowa's Hoover Nature Trail in Solon | Photo by Patrick Travers
Iowa’s Hoover Nature Trail in Solon | Photo by Patrick Travers

Eastern Iowa’s Hoover Nature Trail was relatively quiet and relaxing—exactly what we needed after hours of cycling on the shoulders of Iowa county roads and a state highway. In Solon, we easily found the trail behind a high school and multiple recreation fields. The trail’s pavement was in excellent shape, and we stopped to admire the artistically designed concrete bridges across each of the streams.

Iowa's Hoover Nature Trail | Photo by Patrick Travers
Iowa’s Hoover Nature Trail | Photo by Patrick Travers

Cedar Valley Nature Trail (Iowa)

View of Cedar Rapids from Iowa's Cedar Valley Nature Trail | Photo by Patrick Travers
View of Cedar Rapids from Iowa’s Cedar Valley Nature Trail | Photo by Patrick Travers

Our two days on Iowa’s Cedar Valley Nature Trail from Ely to Center Point offered a rich diversity of environments: residential areas, a downtown cityscape, industrial plants and farm fields laden with corn and soybeans. In Cedar Rapids, on the 16th floor of a hotel’s restaurant, we celebrated our silver anniversary (25 years together!), plus had an excellent view of the enormous Quaker Oats plant below us.

On our second day, we followed a detour around the Cedar Rapids levee project, stopped in Marion at an organic market, cycled through the Hiawatha suburbs and once again made our way to farmlands. In Center Point, we ate our sandwiches in the perfect setting: a bench outside the restored Waterloo, Cedar Falls & Northern Railway depot.

Waterloo, Cedar Falls & Northern Railway depot along the Iowa's Cedar Valley Nature Trail | Photo by Patrick Travers
Waterloo, Cedar Falls & Northern Railway depot along the Iowa’s Cedar Valley Nature Trail | Photo by Patrick Travers

Related: Trail of the Month: Iowa’s Cedar Valley Nature Trail (May 2019)


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The 3,700-mile developing Great American Rail-Trail® is 53% complete to date. Learn more about this epic cross-country route.

Shevonne and Pat Travers
Shevonne and Pat Travers

Based in Vermont's Mad River Valley, Shevonne and Pat Travers enjoy writing about their adventures by bike, including their cross-country journey on the Great American Rail-Trail. Learn more about the Traverses at Two Slowpokes on Spokes.

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