Destination: Oregon’s Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail
I was here to ride northern Oregon’s Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail (HCRHST)—a stretch I’d been wanting to experience for quite some time. The old Highway 30, aka the Columbia River Highway, originally completed in 1922, runs about 75 miles from Troutdale, just outside Portland, to The Dalles. It was considered an engineering marvel in its day. Of those 75 miles, four segments have been restored and repurposed into car-free paths that offer some of the most scenic cycling and walking routes in the Pacific Northwest.
These paved trails wind through tunnels and forests, and along waterfalls and cliffs, offering about 20 miles of immersion in this picturesque river gorge. No cars to dodge, just the rhythm of my wheels and the occasional distant rush of I-84 in the background.
John B. Yeon Trailhead to Cascade Locks (6.9 miles)
The westernmost stretch of the HCRHST begins near the Elowah Falls trailhead in the John B. Yeon State Scenic Corridor and winds east toward Cascade Locks. I found it to be one of the lushest, most waterfall-laced sections of the entire route. The falls here, however, are tucked along hiking trails, so exploring them requires dismounting and some extra footwork.
When I rolled out from the trailhead, the morning air was cool and thick with that classic Northwest scent—wet fir, moss and earth. Along the trail’s edge, weathered stonework reminded me of the era when this was Oregon’s most celebrated highway.
The ride has a few climbs, some hitting 8%; but none are long, and elevation gain stays modest at around 200 feet. In places, the charred remnants of the 2017 Eagle Creek Fire remain, but they’re softened by the fresh green rebound of the understory. Ferns, shoots, and saplings are steadily reclaiming the burn.
Then I came upon a curious feature: a staircase. In the 1930s, highway crews blasted away part of the old roadbed to make way for a tunnel near Tooth Rock. Trail designers had to improvise to reconnect the route. I dismounted and used the built-in wheel groove to guide my bike down the steep stairway—not difficult with a lightweight carbon-frame gravel bike. But I’ve heard from riders on heavier e-bikes that this spot can be a real challenge, whether you’re going up or down. It’s not ADA-accessible, though future trail plans call for replacing the stairs.
I coasted the final stretch into Cascade Locks with that satisfying mix of tired legs and a head full of fresh impressions. First stop: coffee. I pulled into town and found my way to the funky Kaile’a Coffee Co for a strong espresso in the yard, already replaying the ride in my mind.
I met up with my wife—she’d shuttled the Jeep to the Bridge of the Gods trailhead, which is also a major stop for Pacific Crest Trail hikers. From there, I’d move on to the next segment.
Viento State Park to Wyeth Trailhead (7.2 miles)
I started at Viento State Park on a typical April morning. There’s plenty of parking here, plus a nearby campground, ranger station, restroom and water bottle fill station—an easy place to launch a ride.
Heading west toward the Wyeth trailhead, I eased in with a gentle descent. That didn’t last long, though; a climb half a mile in got my legs working with a short section that had some steeper grades. On the descent toward Starvation Creek and Wyeth, I hit another 8% slope. This time, the cool morning air and the shaded trail made me thankful I’d layered up.
Just over a mile in, I reached Starvation Creek State Park. The parking lot sits off I-84, but the real draw is the 190-foot, two-tiered Starvation Creek Falls, just a short, paved detour of 0.1 mile. An artist was painting below the falls, capturing the light and motion. I paused at a nearby picnic table, soaking it in before rolling west.
Soon after came Cabin Creek Falls, a 220-foot cascade spilling down right beside the trail. Not far beyond is Hole in the Wall Falls, a dramatic 190-foot drop with an unusual origin. In 1938, highway crews blasted a channel through the cliff to divert Warren Creek, which had flooded the old road—creating this man-made waterfall named for how the water bursts through rock. Hole in the Wall is just off the trail via a short path with a small picnic area and viewpoint. While I was there, a family from Austin, Texas, was buckling their baby into a bike seat; they were return visitors to the trail and already planning another return. A little farther along, another side path leads to Lancaster Falls, one more tucked-away gem in the forest on this waterfall-filled ride.
At times, the trail runs close to I-84, and traffic noise is hard to miss. But as the path climbed, I rose above it and appreciated the frequent overlooks with sweeping river views. Soon, the trail dips back into quiet woods. The final approach into Wyeth winds through a peaceful, pastoral setting—a calm finish to this gorge stretch.
Rail-Trails: Pacific Northwest Guidebook
Want to experience the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail or some of the other great trail destinations in Idaho, Oregon and Washington? You’ll find maps, helpful details and photos for 65 multiuse trails across these three states in our Rail-Trails: Pacific Northwest Guidebook, available in our online Trail Shop.
Mitchell Point Segment (1.5 miles)
I couldn’t wait to check out the newest stretch of the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail—the Mitchell Point segment with its 655-foot-long tunnel. The original tunnel, built in 1915, was known for its arched windows that framed panoramic views of the Columbia River. It closed in 1953 due to safety concerns and growing traffic, and by 1966, it was demolished to make way for I-84. In 2025, a new tunnel built for cyclists and pedestrians has brought it back to life, complete with those arched windows and stunning views. It opened just a month before my ride, and it’s truly one of the best historical rail-trail tunnels I’ve experienced.
This section is accessed directly from I-84 eastbound at Exit 58. The trailhead lot is well-maintained but small, with space for just 18 vehicles. Users can also reach it from Viento State Park by heading east on the HCRHST, though the wide path narrows to a hiking-only trail—bicycles aren’t permitted past that point. Construction of a bike-accessible path is planned.
The tunnel itself is mostly flat, with a gentle incline from the lot. Riding through it felt like stepping into the past—and the ambient light from the archways let me appreciate all the interior detail. After exiting the tunnel, I continued downhill toward the trail’s end. I kept going along quiet Mitchell Point Drive. It’s a short ride before hitting the I-84 ramps. For bold cyclists, this on-ramp leads to Hood River, just over 2 miles away.
Hood River to Mosier Segment (4.7 miles)
This part of the trail had been calling to me, especially with spring in full swing. Spring in the gorge is wildflower season, and it’s something else. The bloom usually kicks off in the eastern part of the gorge and slowly works its way west as the weeks go by. This segment of trail starts just east of Hood River at the Mark O. Hatfield West Trailhead and winds its way to Mosier, ending at the Mark O. Hatfield East Trailhead. It’s a 4.7-mile trip and what’s cool is how the landscape shifts along the way. You move from lush, green forests into those classic eastern gorge scenes: rolling hills, basalt cliffs and that wide-open, sunbaked feel.
One of the real highlights of this stretch for me, aside from the wildflowers starting to pop in the eastern sections, was riding through the Mosier Twin Tunnels. They were originally built back in 1921 and then widened in the 1930s. The tunnels run about 390 feet and add a historical feeling to the ride. When I-84 was completed in 1954, the tunnels were left behind and filled in with rubble. But in 2000, they were reopened as a key feature of the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail—and they’re just as impressive today.
Mosier and Beyond
Spring is hands-down the best time to hike around Mosier and Rowena Crest. The hills come alive with wildflowers including balsamroot and lupine—all bursting with color against those sweeping views of the Columbia River. The Mosier Plateau hiking trail is a favorite: a 6-mile climb from town, and you’re up in a sea of blooms with a view that stretches forever. Rowena Crest, just down the road, has its own magic. The Tom McCall Preserve trails wind through open meadows and basalt outcrops, and in peak bloom, it’s like walking through a living postcard.
The town of Mosier is worth a stop. It’s got that easygoing, small-town vibe that just feels right after a few miles on the trail. Cyclists love it too; it’s right near the Mark O. Hatfield Trailhead and makes a great launch point for road rides out to Rowena Crest, Seven Mile Hill and beyond. There are some solid food and drink options. After hiking the trails around Tom McCall Park at Rowena Crest, I took part of the day to kick back in Mosier, grabbing a coffee at Randonnée Coffee, found some seriously great tacos at La Vaquita Taqueria, and just soaked in the scene.
Getting There
The closest airport is the Portland International Airport. My “headquarters” for the trail was Hood River, Oregon, approximately 59 miles from the airport via I-84/US 30 at Exits 62, 63 and 65.
What To See
Hood River is an outdoor enthusiast’s hub, known as one of the world’s windsurfing capitals thanks to the winds that funnel through the Columbia River Gorge. Mt. Hood, Oregon’s highest peak at 11,249 feet, is just over 35 miles away, providing year-round adventure.
Hood River sits in the heart of Oregon’s orchard country. The Hood River Fruit Loop is a 35-mile scenic drive, or bike ride, along quiet country roads that wind past 32 farms, fruit stands, wineries, breweries and cideries.
The Mount Hood Railroad operates out of Hood River, offering seasonal scenic train tours through orchard country. For a more hands-on experience, try one of their railbikes.
Hood River is home to the Western Antique Aeroplane and Automobile Museum, where vintage planes and classic cars, many from the same era as the Historic Columbia River Highway, are beautifully displayed.
Where To Stay
There are a couple of hotels near the riverfront that are walking distance to restaurants, breweries, coffeehouses and all of downtown Hood River including the Hampton Inn and Suites and the Best Western Plus Hood River Inn. In Hood River’s downtown, the historical Hood River Hotel, which has been around since 1912, is within easy walking distance to everything.
Where To Eat
Hood River has a multitude of great restaurants, brewpubs and coffeehouses. If you’re like me and have a soft spot for pizza and beer after a ride, Hood River delivers. Double Mountain Brewery is a longtime local favorite with wood-fired pies and hoppy IPAs. Near the river, Solstice is a must, offering creative toppings, perfectly charred crusts and inventive combos. Practically right next door, pFriem Family Brewers had a great farmhouse ale when I was there, together with elevated pub fare. On Oak Street, Lake Taco serves up vibrant dishes of authentic Mexican food, ideal for a casual post-ride meal downtown.
Where To Rent
Hood River has plenty of great bike rental options for exploring the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail. Pedal & Paddle, right on the waterfront, rents e-bikes. Sol Rides offers pedal-assist bikes as well as guided tours. Mountain View Cycles rents both high-performance mountain and road bikes.
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